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Mavic aluminium road wheels with disc brakes or brake pads: our own manufacture.

Mavic aluminium road wheels: ISM rims, in-house hubs, quality made by Mavic

Aluminium remains the benchmark material for road cycling: controlled tolerances, consistent performance, excellent fatigue resistance and long-term reliability.

At Mavic,...

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Welded rims: structural continuity and consistency

A rim is subject to constant cyclic stresses. Mastering welded rims contributes to better structural continuity and a more homogeneous rim. The result: a more consistent, more stable wheel and a clean finish — a mark of quality when looking for lasting performance.

ISM4D: material optimisation, useful rigidity

This is the key technology that perfectly illustrates Mavic's mastery of aluminium.

With ISM4D, machining follows a simple principle: remove material where it does not contribute to useful strength, and retain it in areas subject to high stress. This optimisation improves the weight/stiffness/strength ratio: a wheel that is more responsive to changes in pace and as pleasant to ride as wheels with carbon rims.

FORE: external drilling, assembly stability... and the basis for "true" tubeless

FORE technology is based on drilling carried out solely on the outside of the rim. From an engineering point of view, this allows for a cleaner and more robust architecture, and an assembly designed to remain consistent over time (tension, stability). Above all, FORE is the key to our "true tubeless" approach: a rim designed to be tubeless without a rim base. Fewer components, fewer risks associated with rim tape (delamination, micro-leaks, ageing), and a tyre/rim interface designed for reliability.

Tubeless with or without rim tape: control, performance and peace of mind

On wheels such as the Ksyrium SL, tubeless without a rim tape simplifies the system and improves robustness in use. Combined with the right tyre and consistent pressure, tubeless often provides:

  • better control on rough surfaces (optimised pressure)
  • a more consistent feeling of efficiency on rough roads
  • real peace of mind on a daily basis (fewer "weak" elements in the assembly)

Mavic hubs: the centre of gravity of reliability

The wheel is not just the rim: the hub determines the smoothness, engagement and longevity of the bearings. Our aluminium wheels are based on complete mastery of the hub + spoke assembly (architecture, tension, stability) to guarantee consistent performance and lasting mechanical strength, even when the kilometres pile up week after week.

Disc or rim brakes: same philosophy, same standards

Whether you ride with disc brakes or brake pads, you'll find the same Mavic approach: a wheel designed as a coherent whole, validated by testing, with technical choices focused on stability, reliability and lasting performance.

Aluminium road wheels remain a safe bet: they are durable, perform consistently and are easy to use on a daily basis. Questions always come back to very specific points: durability, braking (disc or pads), tubeless/tyre compatibility, rigidity, and above all maintenance (warping, spoke tension, bearings, freewheel body). In this FAQ, we share workshop tips for choosing the right wheels, checking for wear and tear, and keeping them in good condition, season after season.
FAQ

Aluminium wheels have two major strengths: robustness and consistency. They are more tolerant of minor everyday impacts and remain very predictable, especially when conditions become difficult. In addition, aluminium wheels provide greater comfort.
With rim brakes, aluminium often provides a more consistent braking feel in the rain. With disc brakes, the difference is more in terms of behaviour (stiffness/weight) than braking itself. Carbon allows for higher profiles and can offer weight and aerodynamic gains, but aluminium remains the "always-ride" choice, durable and rational.

Simple but regular routine:

  • Gentle washing (lukewarm water + soap), without using a high-pressure jet on the hubs
  • Drying (especially around the bearings and freewheel body)
  • Visual inspection: rim (dents), spokes (marks), nuts (corrosion), tyre
  • Mechanical check: hub play, warping/jumping, bearing noise
    After rain/salting: quick rinse + drying = best "gain" for longevity

On average, yes, but the real question in the workshop is: for the same use, does it perform as well?

A well-designed aluminium wheel can be very responsive, stable and durable. Weight matters, but the feel also comes from useful rigidity, the quality of the assembly (even tension) and the hub.

For frequent riding, aluminium is often an excellent compromise.

Yes.

  • Brake pads: monitor wear on the braking surface (appearance of grooves, wear indicator if present, uneven surface). A dirty brake pad can "eat" into the rim.
  • Disc: pay particular attention to the condition of the disc (minimum thickness) and friction/warping, rather than the rim.

Typical signs: intermittent rubbing (brake pads or disc) or a feeling that the wheel is "not smooth".
Workshop test: spin the wheel and observe the gap at the brake pads/caliper.

  • Slight warping: often, simply trueing the wheel is sufficient.
  • If the warping returns: check the spoke tension (often uneven) or for a worn spoke.

After purchasing a new bike: check the pressure after your first few rides (the tyres will "settle" into place).
Then: if you ride 100+ km/week, a periodic check (or as soon as a noise appears) is a good idea. A wheel that lasts is a wheel with even tension: that's the real "workshop" secret.

Three signs:

  • play (sideways clunking when you move the wheel)
  • rough rotation (grainy feeling)
  • noise (humming, scratching)
    Tip: remove the wheel and turn the axle by hand. If it feels rough or "sticks", it's time to take action (cleaning/maintenance or replacement depending on the hub).
  • Noise/irregular engagement
  • Engagement that is "slow"
  • Feeling of pedalling that skips when restarting
    On a road bike, simple maintenance (cleaning + appropriate lubrication) prevents 80% of problems. Too much grease can also slow down the mechanism: in the workshop, we look for the right lubricant film, not "putting on a lot".

Compatibility depends on the rim: profile, internal width, and tubeless specification.

  • Tubeless: excellent for lowering pressure slightly, increasing comfort and limiting certain incidents.
  • Inner tube: simple and universal.
    Mavic advice: respect the maximum pressures and use tyres that are compatible with your rim (this is where safety and ease of fitting come into play).
  • Clean the brake track regularly and remove grit/shavings from the brake pads
  • Avoid constantly "dragging" the brakes when going downhill: instead, brake in sequences (slow down/release).
  • Replace the brake pads before they become too worn: a brake pad at the end of its life will damage the rim more quickly.