Road Cycling Shoes: How to Choose the Right Pair

The stiffness rating of a sole is measured on a scale of 100 and should be chosen according to the duration and intensity of your rides. In the Mavic road range, a rating of 50/100 corresponds to a glass-fibre-reinforced polyamide sole, which retains a slight, useful flex during rides lasting several hours. A rating of 70, achieved with a carbon sole, is suitable for fast-paced training where you’re making repeated accelerations without exerting maximum effort. A rating of 80/100, on a carbon composite sole, limits deformation under heavy load and is designed for racing. Above that, a full-carbon sole takes this principle a step further. A high index does not improve comfort: it improves power transfer when a high force is applied.

The weight of a road cycling shoe is measured per shoe, in a standard size, and its effect is felt more in the inertia of pedalling than in the total weight of the bike. The Mavic road range varies from 245 to 270 g per shoe in UK size 8.5, representing a 50 g difference per pair between the two extremes: that’s not much on a set of scales, but this mass is set in motion with every revolution – around 5,000 times per hour at 85 revolutions per minute. The difference is therefore felt more during repeated accelerations than on a ride at a steady pace. For the same weight, the stiffness of the sole and the quality of the support have a greater impact on the overall feel.

The lifespan of road cycling shoes is determined by three areas of wear rather than by mileage. The upper gradually stretches at the fastening points, and a shoe that requires one notch tighter than when new to provide the same level of support is nearing the end of its life. The rubber heel pads, which ensure grip between the foot and the ground, wear out first and can be replaced on models designed for this purpose. The sole, however, retains its rigidity for much longer than the upper. The dials and laces can also be replaced, which helps to extend the life of a pair where the sole and upper remain in good condition. 

A broken BOA® dial can be replaced without changing the shoe, as the system is designed to be dismantled. Mavic road models fitted with BOA® L6 or Li2 dials use standard parts, which are covered by the system manufacturer’s warranty in addition to the shoe’s 2-year warranty. The lace, which may fray before the dial does, is replaced in the same way. In both cases, the repair is carried out using the corresponding spare part, with no special tools required for most installations. Make a note of the dial model reference, printed on the mechanism, to ensure you order the correct part.

Trying them on is still the best way to check a road cycling shoe, because foot volume and instep height vary greatly from one cyclist to another, even within the same shoe size. Try them on at the end of the day, when your feet are swollen, wearing the socks you’d use on a ride, and check three things: the heel mustn’t lift when you simulate pedalling, the forefoot mustn’t touch the toe box, and the instep must be supported without you having to tighten the laces as much as possible. To try on several models side by side, use the Mavic retailer locator to find your nearest stockist, even for models that are temporarily unavailable online.

A wide foot is best accommodated by the shoe’s volume and by adjusting the tightness, not by the shoe size, as going up a size lengthens the shoe without widening it and allows the foot to slide forwards. In the Mavic road range, the Aksium Strap offers the most generous fit, and its M-shaped strap distributes pressure across the entire width of the instep rather than along a narrow strip. On a model with a dial, loosen the front section first if the system allows it; the Cosmic SLR’s dual BOA® system adjusts the forefoot independently of the instep. A reliable guide when trying on shoes: if the upper puckers on either side when tightened, the shoe is too wide; if the side seams dig into the foot, it is too narrow.

Riding on the road in gravel shoes is possible and poses no mechanical risk, but there is a noticeable loss of efficiency during intense efforts. A gravel shoe features a lugged sole and a two-screw SPD-style cleat, which is more comfortable for walking but has a smaller contact area than a three-screw road cleat. The contact area between the foot and the pedal is therefore smaller, and the sole, designed to allow for walking, is generally less rigid. For mixed rides involving sections of trail, this choice makes sense. For exclusively road use with frequent sprints, a road shoe with a 3-bolt cleat system transfers power more effectively.